Sunday, August 26, 2012

Provence & Cote d'Azur - Monaco

The Principality of Monaco, a sovereign state, seems somewhat an anomaly in modern European politics.  It is almost like a fiefdom affiliated to France, bordered on 3 sides by France and on one side by the Mediterranean sea.  It is tiny - only 2 square km - and only has 30,000+ residents, of which less than 5,000 are actually Monegasque subjects.  The rest own residence permits to either benefit from the absence of income tax, or perhaps they just like to have some place to spend some serious money.  

It is one of the world's most densely populated countries.  Here you can see the road where the annual F1 race takes place. 

Another view of the rocky outpost that became Monaco.

Another gratuitous shot of the harbour of Monaco

Monaco also has the world's most expensive real estate market.  This odd hammer-shaped studio apartment of 30 sqm is going for EUR 1.5m, and it's not even in the city center. 

The story of Monaco is captivating.  Up to the end of the 13th century, Monaco was a colony of Genoa in Italy.  In 1297, Francesco Grimaldi, a member of the powerful House of Grimaldi in Genoa, together with a few of his men, dressed as monks, knocked on the door of the fortress protecting the Rock of Monaco (I was not lying when I said this place is just a big piece of rock) in the middle of the night asking for shelter.  Once they entered, they captured the fortress, and became rulers of the place.  Except for one century of dispute, the House of Grimaldi ruled Monaco since then, and the current Prince Albert II is a direct descendant.  Talk about a successful coup d'etat...
Today, the coat of arms of the House of Grimaldi in Monaco sports 2 men dressed as monks brandishing swords 

Of course, the other captivating story about Monaco is the marriage of the American actress Grace Kelly to Prince Rainer III in 1956.  Who doesn't like a fairy tale of a commoner marrying a prince?  (Actually she was not too shabby a commoner; her father was a brick tycoon in America)  It was said that the Prince chose to marry a famous celebrity to boost interest in Monaco, whose fortunes were dwindling at that time.  But regardless, she was and still is greatly admired by her subjects.  Unfortunately, she died in a tragic car accident in 1982, on one of the hairpin roads just outside Monaco.  

I recommend watching the 1955 film To Catch a Thief with Grace Kelly and Cary Grant.  Nice shots of Nice and outlying areas, the classic beauty of Grace Kelly, and rather scintillating dialogue.  

Photo of the wedding of Grace Kelly to Prince Rainer in 1956

The fairy tale continues today with the marriage of Charlene Whitstock, former Olympic swimmer, to the reigning Prince Albert.  Their photos are displayed prominently in every shop in the city state.  Reminded me of Thailand's reverence for King Bhumipol.

Monaco is also known for its gambling cachet.  The Casino de Monte Carlo of the James Bond fame is still going strong, but sadly we are not able to bring you photos of its beautiful Art Deco halls, because of our beautiful young kids. %3^&!#........ 

Rows and rows of luxurious cars parked outside the casino.  And just about everywhere else in this place.

A Mercedes SLS AMG was mobbed by everyone present.  Even the blase YL wanted a photo, can you imagine?

Another pretty car (TWO Bugatti Veyrons, to be exact) outside the Hermitage Hotel, one of the most expensive places to stay in Monaco.  There were endless groups of people taking photos of them.  No one bothered or noticed the string of Ferraris & Porsches  parked nearby.  We saw the driver and passenger while they were getting out of the car, and we think they are probably the Russian mafia.  We are not kidding.


We parked our car up in a hill on one end of the city, and walked with 2 kids in the hot sun all over the island and finally ended up at the casino.  Needless to say, we were haggard, sweaty, brown and smelly after that trek.  After salivating over these cars, walking past women in jewels that costs as much as a house, and reassessing where we had gone wrong in life, we had to get back to get our car.  I said, "OK, let's take a taxi back".  YL replied sheepishly, "Actually I was thinking of taking the bus".   

I love my husband, I love my life, I love my husband, I love my life...

Why did he become a doctor and not a mafia leader?

The rings were as thick as my YL's wrists.

Jacuzzi and a wine bar are standard features on the yachts there 

Of course with all that money oozing out of every pore in the city, security is a prime issue.  This is why Monaco is probably the world's safest city, with the highest number of police/ security personnel per capita.  CCTVs spy over every corner, police booths and presence can be felt immediately.  While on the tourist train taking us around the city, we saw a tourist faint from the heat.  Within 3 minutes, firemen were attending to her (Monaco is still very French; emergencies are handled first by the firemen, and then the ambulance and other emergency services).   

Yet another police booth we passed on our 10-minute walk

Monaco is not all about crass, shallow wealth.  It has one of the world's best oceanographic museums and research on deep sea exploration.  Jacques Cousteau was the director of the museum when he was alive.  This was one of his submarines used during his research.  (I haven't heard of him either, but YL assured me - between gasps of disbelief - that he is very famous and important)


In order to fit in with the Monegasque crowd (and to anticipate YL's mid-life crisis), we got ourselves a swanky convertible for the trip and for the drive on the Moyenne Corniche and Grande Corniche.  These coastal roads skim the edge of the Mediterranean sea along the mountains, giving you an unprecedented view of the azure sea, the luxurious seaside mansions, and the wealth that eludes you.  It was also made famous in the film To Catch a Thief. 

The kids were initially elated about the whole retractable roof thing, but Soph very quickly decided that she wouldn't like to be IN the car when the car is going at 130 km/h with the roof down.  Ju was enjoying himself until he heard his sister's complaints, and, to be cool, he decided he didn't like it as well.  :)   



Disclaimer: No young children were harmed in the shooting of this footage.

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