Which also meant that the deers were single-mindedly focused on *us*. <gulp>
Besides being known as Japan's first permanent capital and for its ancient temples, Nara is also famous for the wild deers that roamed the grounds of its central park. I thought it would be a fun activity for the kids to feed the deers and happily bought two packets of rice crackers for JPY 150 each. The drama started as soon as the seller handed over those crackers.
They chased us, butted us, and even bit pieces of my bag and scarf. I could not help but squeal several times. (As a rule, I do not squeal in public). Even YL was intimidated.
And I thought that Japanese deers would be the epitome of gentleness and patience...
Warning signs that the deers may kick, butt or bite. All of which they did to the kids, as they were demonstrating here in this picture.
I think the kids were never so happy to enter another temple, because we got to leave those thuggish deers behind.
Question: Why don't the deers harass the rice cracker sellers? They can get a whole days' worth of food from someone who is stationed in the same spot all day, everyday. Hmmm...
We had a delightful Japanese tour guide who gave us a 20-minute orientation of the grounds of the temple and its history. She was also an expert on the best spots to pose and at taking good pictures. Trust us, this is not always a given skill with guides or even those with fancy SLR cameras.
This is one of a handful of family photos we took on the entire trip that did not involve us being scattered all around (to fit into the camera when using it in selfie-mode) or having a missing arm (selfie stick method).
At many popular Japanese tourist spots, there are volunteer guides who offer free guided tours to tourists. They are often retirees or homemakers with time and language skills to spare. During our first tour last year, we tried to offer a small tip to the guide, and she looked genuinely offended. So we learned to just accept and appreciate this service as one of the perks of travel in Japan :)
By the way, the golden "horns" you see at the top of traditional Japanese temples are fish tails to represent the element of water to counter these wooden buildings' greatest threat, fire.
Todaiji is an impressive temple because of its austere and natural simplicity. I say this despite having seen several notable temples in the past few days in Kyoto. Its main hall, Daibutsuden (Big Buddha Hall), has the distinction of being the world's largest wooden building, even though it was rebuilt in the 17th century only to 2/3 of its original 8th-century size. During its heyday, the temple was influential even in political affairs.
The Big Buddha, whose palm is the height of a human being.
This hole in the wooden beam is said to be the size of Buddha's nostrils. If you can squeeze through it without any help, you will gain enlightenment in the next life. There were some adults who were stuck and need to be pulled through.
Any chance of a mini enlightenment in this life for these two? Just knowing when to stop playing on the computer or watching TV will be good enough, please....
I told the kids they can pray to Buddha for something they really want. Sophie prayed for good results next year for her PSLE (Primary School Leaving Examination), and Ju prayed for a bathtub in his house when he grows up. I think the secret to happiness in life is being contented with the simple joys of life, don't you think?
On the way back to Kyoto, we stopped over at the town of Uji, known as a center of tea production and as the setting for the last 10 chapters of Genji Monotagari (Tale of Genji), sometimes called the world's first novel.
It's also where Byodoin is located. The temple's most significant feature is the Phoenix Hall, pictured here and found on the back of the JPY 10 coin. You can see 2 golden phoenixes (reproductions) on its roof.
The temple was not as packed as those in Kyoto, being somewhat off the beaten tourist path, but there were still groups of Japanese schoolchildren visiting when we were there. It was small enough to appreciate, quiet enough to reflect, and pretty enough for a pleasant stroll. I recommend visiting the small museum here as the exhibits were very nicely exhibited and illuminated, though English descriptions were not found for all displays.
One way to keep a souvenir of all the temples and shrines visited is to obtain a go-shuin from each. Originally used by pilgrims as they made their rounds to the important religious sites, the go-shuin includes a seal in vermillion ink, and handwritten calligraphy in a special album. You can purchase the album at most temples for JPY 1500-2000 each, and each temple have its own designs that reflects its unique features. Since it's high tourist season, some of the temples we visited had pre-printed, pre-written go-shuin, which you can paste in your album, but I much prefer the ones written directly onto the album, as they seem more personal.
Most temples will provide a go-shuin for a JPY 500 donation.
The calligrapher putting down her strokes for Phoenix Hall. When there is high volume, you would leave your album with the go-shuin office, and receive a numbered tag in return, which you use to collect your album after 15-30 minutes.
My collection of go-shuin from this trip. The album was purchased from Kinkakuji, with a golden embossed picture of the golden phoenix found on the roof of the Golden Pavilion.
After the calligraphy is done, a slip of blotting paper is placed on the page to prevent smearing. This one at the Eikan-do shows the Looking-Back Buddha. See story here.
We also had matcha-flavoured soba along the river.
And checked out the statue of Murasaki Shikibu, the author of Genji Monogatari. She was a court lady who told the story of Genji and his amorous pursuits, political intrigues and the lifestyles of the nobility in the Heian court to other court ladies. Written in an aristocratic language and in the Japanese indigenous kana script (as opposed to the Chinese kanji which reduces the erroneous reading of homophones), it was indecipherable just a century after it was written, and so various interpretations of the novel have made their rounds in the literary circle.
Back in Kyoto, we ended the day with a visit to its most recognised landmark, Fushimi Inari. The Shinto shrine is dedicated to Inari, the god of rice, and as foxes are thought to be his messengers, you will find statues of foxes and other fox-themed paraphernalia and dishes in the area.
The shrine is open 24/7 so go early in the morning if you want to take some nice tourist-free shots.
The shrine is known for its thousand of vermillion torii gates erected by businesses and individuals, whose names and dates of construction are inscribed on the columns. A torii gate marks the entrance to a shrine and a sacred place.
There are two rows of densely packed torii gates which create a tunnel of red for those passing underneath
And there are m-a-n-y who want to pass underneath
It's an exercise in patience to get a clear shot
It's easier to get off the path
In case you're interested in erecting one of your own torii gate, here are the rates, though I read somewhere that you have to wait till one of the existing ones are removed
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