Nezu Shrine
Nezu Shrine (根津神社 Nezu jinja) is called Tokyo's most underrated shrine in some travel blogs. I have not visited any of the other Tokyo shrines yet, so I can't vouch for this, but it was certainly a pleasant place when I visited on a Friday afternoon. There were no crowds, and the grounds were free from selfie-sticks, tourist chatter, and vendors. It was just being what is should be: a shrine. I even got my go-shuin in under 5 minutes.
The shrine was relocated here from Sendagi in the early 1700s by the 5th shogun, Tokugawa Tsunayoshi, for the benefit of his successor, the 6th shogun, Tokugawa Ienobu. It survived the air raids of World War II, and is one of the city's oldest shrines/temples today. Several features of the building are designated as National Important Cultural Properties.
Inside the grounds of the shrine
My guide tells me that when the shrine was under construction, a red-light district emerged in the neighbourhood in order to cater to the needs of the large population of carpenters and craftsmen. But much later, after the Meiji Restoration in 1868, when the Tokyo University was founded in this area, they cleared the entire district to avoid distractions for the students, so today there are no signs at all of the red-light district. Hmmm...double standards here.
Statues of dogs and foxes guard one of the shrines
Otome Inari, aka mini Fushimi Inari :)
In case you did not get to take the iconic shot at the breath-taking-but-perpetually-chocked-with-tourists red torii gates at Kyoto's Fushimi Inari shrine, here's your second chance, at the Otome Inari. Both are dedicated to the Inari deity, commonly represented by the fox.
Moving on from the shrine, we strolled past the neighbourhood of Yanaka. I am perpetually puzzled at YL's comments that Japanese homes all look alike. How can that be so, especially when compared to the uniformity of mass-constructed housing in residential estates all over Malaysia, and the HDB blocks of Singapore?
Case in point #1: Different doors, materials, size,... everything!
Case in point #2: Different feel, layout, age...everything! All pictures are taken in the same street (or maybe two)
I was also surprised to learn that this entire area of Yanaka & Ueno and surrounding areas are reclaimed land, a project undertaken since the Edo period. Prior to that, it was a scenic spot with meandering rivers, rice fields and vegetation. The haiku master, Matsuo Basho, penned an ode to the beauty of the place:
Kusa no ha o 草の葉を
Otsuru yori tobu 落つるより飛ぶ
Hotaru kana 蛍かな
No sooner fallen from a leaf of grass
Than it flew away
A firefly
(© Takafumi Saito & William R. Nelson)
Here is the view that Basho was describing
And here's what that view looks like today. Yeah, I had that doubtful look on my face, too...
To cap off the tour, we ended up in Yanaka Ginza near the JR Nippori Station. It is known for its old-time atmospheric feel. My guide recommended a couple of shops to buy snacks, but unfortunately, when the tour ended just 10 minutes later, all of them were sold out! :( Now I'll have to go back again...Sis, we'll go for steamed chestnuts when you're here!
Snack shop on one end of the Yanaka Ginza
They all look interesting, but I had no idea what they were. I hovered at the entrance suspiciously while desperately trying to translate the signs on my dictionary with little success. I then eavesdropped on a group of ladies who made all sorts of appreciative noises when the gregarious proprietor came out to introduce his wares to them, and planned to buy whatever they bought. And that's how I ended up with various snacks (at least I think they are snacks...) of dubious origins... Will report here if I get sick...
1 comment:
yummmm!! steamed chestnuts sounds good. by the time I arrive, you should have figured all those other snacks right?
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